Entrance to The Hanging Church
On our 3rd day in Cairo, our wonderful tour guide, Jasmine, took us to a variety of historical religious sites. Although every place we visited was educational and intriguing -for me, as a Christian, the Hanging Church, St. Sergius Church, and the Coptic Museum were the most moving.
The Hanging Church, given its name due to its suspended nave above the ruins of a Babylon fortress first built by the Persians in the 6th century B.C., houses some of the oldest Christian icons. The church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and its most cherished icon is a painting of Mary and Baby Jesus dated 18 A.D. In a 5 minute span, we were able to witness an abundance of different races of Christians light candles and pray for forgiveness or for loved ones under this very sacred image. As a small town girl who grew up in an all caucasian Methodist Church, I was touched and grateful.
After lighting a few candles, we listened to Jasmine tell us about a 24 million Egyptian Pound restoration project spearheaded by their Muslim President Mubarak. I thought to myself…with all of the anger and fear that many Americans hold in their hearts toward the Islamic religion – why has this very positive news not been mentioned?
Egyptian Ankh
From the Hanging Church we walked to the Coptic Museum. I highly recommend visiting this spot. It only takes about an hour to tour and the building itself is quite striking. I was fascinated by the mix of religions as they gradually transformed – the Egyptian Ankh into the Christian Cross, as well as, Christian scenes incorporating Egyptian Gods. The museum holds the history of the way religion evolved. The treasure I was most excited to see was the Nag Hammadi Manuscripts – early copies of Christian writings including the Gospel of Thomas (a gospel not included in the Bible).
Stairs Leading to Where The Holy Family Rested
The final Christian site we visited was the Church of Saint Sergius. Honestly, this 4th century church itself is not all that spectacular. Of course it has many precious icons and a beautiful pulpit, but the main attraction is a tiny staircase that leads down to a dark cave where the Holy Family – Mary and Joseph once rested with Baby Jesus after their journey into Egypt. Realizing that I could be standing on the exact same ground where Jesus was once kept was a truly remarkable experience. To think of all of the history in between then and now – all of the wars fought in His name…I was moved and so was Brett. It was a very sweet moment to share with him.
Standing Inside The Sultan Hassan/Obama Mosque. FASHION: Black H&M tank, White Zara Cardigan, and Lavender and Taupe Linen Hoop Skirt. Tailor Made in China.
From St. Sergius Church we took a car to see our first mosque. This leads me to the title of today’s blog. As we drove, Jasmine began to tell us about our next stop…”Obama’s Mosque”. With my manners flying out the window – I abruptly interrupted her to ask, “What…Obama..not our Obama (meaning the USA’s) right?” “Of course your Obabma”, she responded with a big smile. It was apparent to me at that moment that Obama’s visit to Egypt in June of 2009 had a very profound influence on many Egyptian Muslims. So profound that they are willing to refer to one of the major monuments of the Islamic world by a different name. The true name is The Mosque of Sultan Hassan, commissioned by its namesake in 1356 A.D. It seemed unbelievable to me that a country so proud of its heritage would so quickly refer to 664 year old sacred structure by a different name. I began to think that perhaps this story was for our benefit – perhaps it is their way of showing respect and appreciation for President Obama’s visit and for his words of peace and concern for the non-extremist Muslims (which make up the majority of the religion). But in truth, referring to a mosque by the President of the United States name is probably the last thing that many Americans want to hear. I recently read a survey taken in late July of this year by the Pew Forum on Religion and Public Life that 1 in 5 Americans already believe that President Obama is a Muslim. It made me wonder what the percentage might be if every American was able to see how President Obama is perceived in a Muslim country?
The Hanging Church
The recent uproar over the mosque at Ground Zero, the burning of Qur’ans in Florida, the protests, and even the Saturday Night Live spoofs suggest that this battle between Muslims and Christians is a tragic and never ending cycle. But for me, a life long Christian, sitting in the Sultan Hassan/Obama Mosque was a very peaceful experience. Jasmine and I reflected on the many stories that we had both been taught as children – the story of Abraham and Sarah, of Moses, and even of Jesus. I couldn’t help but feel a little sad that even with so many similarities: morality, prayer, and love of others – we continue to fight and harbor anger toward one another because of the extremists of both religions. It is exactly was God would not want us to do.
After leaving the mosque, I reflected on the entire day. It was wonderful – yet completely mentally exhausting. I learned so much – about tolerance and compassion – and at the same time my faith was completely rejuvenated.
TRAVEL TIP: While it is not necessary for Western women to cover their heads inside mosques and churches, all women should cover their shoulders and arms. I would advise against shorts or short skirts. I took light cotton cardigans and wraps with me everywhere we went and used them when necessary.
A Blonde in Beijing 